Method of preparing shoe-uppers.



M. BROOK. METHOD OF PREPARING 8 APPLICATION FILED IULY 29,1916" R HOE UPPERS.

ENEWED APR 16.19I8.

Patented Nov. 19, 1918..

awn/70R- a citizen of the United Application filed July 29, 1916, Serial No. 112,108. Renewed April To all w/wm'z't may concern:

e it known that I, MATTHIAS BROCK, States, residing at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Methods of Preparing Shoe- Uppers, of which the in connection with the accompanying drawings, 1s a specification, like reference char-.

acters on the drawings indicating like parts 1n the several figures.

This invention relates to the manufacture particularly to shoe upper for of boots and shoes and more the preparation of a'boot or incorporation into a shoe.

In the'manufacture of boots and shoes according to one method which is being extensively used, the assembled upper materials at the toe or heel portions of the upper, or it may be at both portions, including the toe and heel stiffener's, are molded preliminarily to assembling the upper on the last into the shape desired for these parts in the finished shoe. Although the molding operation gives a substantial permanency of shape to the upper materials at these points the uppers are frequently subject to considerable handling before they are incorporated in the shoes and they often remain stacked in large quantities for some time before being used. These conditions tend to destroy the shape originally imparted to the upper in the molding operation and also allow a reaction of the upper materials particularly when the uppers are exposed to dampness. The present invention has for its prlncipal object to provide a method of preparing shoe uppers for incorporation into a shoe by the practice of which the molded conformed portion of the shoe upper may be treated in such manner as to prevent the molded upper materials from being distorted from the shape originally imparted to them before the upper is assembled on the "last upon which the shoe is to be made.

As herein shown the desired results are accomplished by providing a connecting strip of a length to extend between the opposite sides of the conformed portion of the shoe upper and securing the ends of this connecting strip to the marginal edges of the upper materials at opposite sides of the shoe upper. By reason of this strip the confollowing description,

Patented Nov. is, refs. 16, 1918. Serial in. 228,971.

formed portion of the shoe upper is held against spreading out and the upper materials are'prevented from returning to their normal condition after being released from shaplng pressure. Furthermore,this method of preparing a shoe upper greatly facilitates the accurate assembling of the upper on the last and, when applied to the heel portion of the upper, aids considerably in properly positioning and holding the upper on, the last during the lasting operations performed on the toe and side portions of the shoe.

As herein shown the connecting strip is applied only to the assembledheel portion of the shoe upper and preferably it is secured at either end to an inturned heel seat flange at the forward ends of the heel stiffener. In order properly to position and to secure including the heel stiffener are conformed about the heel form or before the shoe upper is released from the molding pressure. The illustrated mechanism for applying this, strip comprises a heel form about which the upper materials are shaped and which is equipped with means arranged to insert tacks from the inside up through the inturned heel seat flange of the upper and the connecting strip after the upper materials have been conformed about the inside former. The insideformer may be provided with means adapted to hold the connecting strip in position for the lower'marginal porv tion of the upper materials to be folded over the ends of the strip during the shaping of the upper materials to insure the proper attachment of the connecting strip to the heel seat flange to inaintainthe conformed condition of the upper after it is released from molding pressure.

Other objects and features of the present invention will be apparent from the following description when considered in connection with the accompanying drawings which illustrate a preferred method by which the invention may be practiced and the novel features are set forth in the appended claims. t

In the drawings,

Figure 1' shows a shoe upper in position to be operated upon by the upper shaping mechanism of a machine which. have emstiffener 6 whlchmay mounted a v the -1ack.

ployed to advantage in practising my invention; and v Fig. 2 shows the heel portion of a shoe upper after its treatment in accordance wit the method of this invention. a

The general organization of the machine, partly illustrated herein, in' con]unctio n with the method of the present invention is fully shown and described in S. Letters Patent No. 1,197,437, granted September 5, 1916, on my application Serial No. 728,183 filed Oct. 28, 1912, of which this application is a-continuat-ion as to disclosurevof subject,- matter which is common to the two applications The illustr leather upper 2 with its lining 4 and a heel be of leather or other fibrous material capable of being conformed to the desired shape. These' parts, after be-j ing properly assembled, are placed between a last-like form or mold 8 having the general shape of the heel portion of a last and a co- '25 operating outer form or mold 10, as illustrated in Fig; 1.

As more fully shown and described in my co-pending application the inner forin'8 is upona jack post 12 which is yieldsupported by a jack having connections to operat ng mechanism form with the assembled upper thereon rearwardly to carry the form 8 into the outer mold 10 and also to elevate- The outer form or mol 10 comprises a plurality of relatively movable jaws .v

the inner faces of which correspond to the contour of the side faces of the inner form 8 and are preferably covered by a lining of hard leather 14 which gives continuity to the shaping surface of'the outer form: In the illustrated method of preparing shoe'uppers the heel portlon of the upper islprovided with an inturned heel seat flange 15 which is formed by means comprisinga plurality of wiper plates 16 which, when intheir normal or retracted positions, project forwardly bevond the shaping surface of the outer mold so that as the work is forced; back into the outer mold 10 the lower marginal portion of the upper materials is turned inwardly onto the upper surface 18 of the inner form '8.

The surface 18 of the inner form 8 is preferably provided with two projecting pins 20 located near the forward edge of the heel on which a connecting strip 22 is pressed to the shaping of the upper materials about the heel form 8. This connecting strip may con-- be formed of a substantially narrow strip of fabric or other inelastic mateof sufiicientlength to vbridge the shoe upper from the heel seat flange 15 at one side of the upper to the opposite portion of the flange and preferably at the forward ends of the heel stifiener 6 or ted shoe upper comprises a of the upper materials.

supporting post .sem'bled heel portion near'the termination of the conformed portion of the shoe PP i Conveniently the connecting strip 22 is placed in position on the pins the assembled upper is placed in position to I be conformed so that as the heel form with the shoe upper thereon is moved, rearwardly into the outer form 10 the lower marginal portion of the upper materials overlying the ends of the strip is wiped in over the ends of the connecting strip. In order to secure the ends of the connecting strip 22 to the inturned heel seat flange 15 the heel form- 8 is provided with tac drivers 26 which are arranged to insert tacks 27 from the inside, up through the ends of the connecting strip and the inturned margin These tack. drivers are advantageously located at the forwar corners of the heel form 8 and owing to the difficulties in the use of the ordinary driver due to the shape of the heelform at these points, a plurality of balls 28 are utilized to transmit tack driving movement between the tack drivers 26 and driver operating bars 30 which are secured at their lower ends to the jack supporting post. 'In the normal inoperative position of driver passages the tacks 27 which are to be driven are. placed by hand in the driver passages preferably before the shaping operation upon the upper materials has been completed. The tack drivers bepositioned in the driver passages so that the driver provide means to hold the connecting strip 22 in position on the heel form.

"In the practice of the invention inconjunction with the machine of said 'co-pendin application above mentioned, the as having been properly positioned and tensioned about the heel form '8 is drawn back into the outer form 10 by the rearward movement'of the heel form 8 and the uppervmaterials are then placed under conforming or 1 shaping preSsureby. the closing of the outer 10 about the heel form8. The relative movements of the inner and outer forms 8 and 10, respectively, and the elevation of tlie jack- 0st carrying the heel form cause an 1 initia turning-in of the marginal portions of the upper materials over the heel seat face 18 of the inner form 8 and the endsof the connecting strip-22 by the overhanging portions of the wiperlates 16., The wiper plates 16' may then be reciprocated repeatedly and in timed relation'to the intermittent elevationrof the jack post and heel form to shape and conform the upper materials to the contourof the inner and outer forms and 20 at the time the drivers 26 in the 26 may also mo of the shoe upper after 1] to form the inturned heel seat flange 17. After the upper materials have received the desired amount of shaping and conforming treatment and preferably while the upper materials are still under shaping pressure between the inner and 27 in the driver passages are driven up through the ends of the connect1ngstrip-22 and the inturned heel'seat flange 17 of the upper by the elevation of the jack post, the tacks being clenched on the under side of the overhanging portions of the wipers 16.

When the shoe upper is removed from the machine the treated heel portion of the up- 1 per is maintained-against spreading out and the upper materials are prevented from returning to their normal oonditionsregardless of when the shoe uppers are incorporated in the shoe.

When the prepared shoe upper illustrated Fig. 2 is applied 'to the last upon which the shoe is to be made the heel portion fits snugly about the heel end of the last in accurate position and provides a pocketto receive'the heel end of the last so as to prevent shifting or displacement of the upper on the last during succeeding operations on the shoe. Also the shoe uppers prepared in accordance with the method of the present invention are not distorted or injured by the more or less severe handling to which they are subject and the several parts of the shoe upper cannot become separated and L lost during such handling.

5 Although the invention has been herein illustrated and described in conjunction with a machine for preliminarily conform- 7 ing the heel portion of an upper prior to assembling the upper on a last it is to be O'understood that the invention may also be I employed to advantage in prep ring a shoe upper in which the upper materials at the L heel end of the shoe upper are not prelimintarily shaped before applying a connecting 3 s rip.

Having thus described my invention, what claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

" 1. That improvement in methods of prea shoe which consists in assembling the upper materials, including an upper stiffener, and, before applying the upper materials to the last upon which the shoe is to be made,

connecting opposite sides of one end of the assembled upper materials, at their marginal bridge across the end portion of the u when the upper is in approximate] shape it is to take in the finished sho 2. That improvement in methods'of prearing a shoe upper for incorporation into 1 shoe which consists in assembling the uppper the outer forms the tacks paring a shoe upper" for incorporation into edges by a connecting strip of a length to er materials including an upper stiffener, h (1 and, before applying the-upper materials to the last on which the shoe is to be made, connecting the marginal edges of the opposite sides of the upper materials at one end of the upper by a bridge member of a length to maintain said end portion of the upper in approximately'the relative position the opposite sides of the upper materials occupy when assembled on the last.

31 That improvement in methods of preparing. a shoe upper for incorporation into a sho which consists in conforming the upper materials of an end of the shoe including an upper stiffener to the shape of these parts in the finished shoe and securing a connecting strip to the lower marginal edges of opposite sides of the shaped portion of the upper to maintain the shaped condition of the upper materials, all prior to assembling the upper materials on the last upon which the shoe is to be made.

4:. That. improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in conforming the upper materials of an end of the shoe including an upper stiffener to the shape of these parts inthe finished shoe and connecting the lower marginal edges of the shaped portion of the upper materials by a connecting strip ofa length to maintain the conformed condition of the upper materials, and thereafter, assembling the prepared upper on a last and proceeding with the making of the shoe.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preliminarily molding an end portion of a shoe upper off the last to the shape of these parts in a finished shoe and connecting the sides of the molded end portion to maintain the upper against spreading before releasing the upper materials from molding subsequently applying the with the making of the shoe.

6. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in preliminarily molding the upper materials of a portion of the shoe including an upper stifi'ener off the last to substantially the shape these parts are to have in the finished shoe and connecting the lower opposite sides of the upper materials by assist in retaining the molded shape of the ulpper during subsequent operations on the s 0e. 1 I i 7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists'in applying a heel shaped portion of the a connecting strip to ginal edges of opposite sides of the upper vmaterials at theforward ends of the heel \stifiener by a connecting strip of a length to maintain the ends of the heel stiflener in 5 the relative p'os'tions' theyare'tol occupy in the finished shoe, removing the shaped upper from the heel form and subsequently applying the upper to the last upon which the shoe is to be made.- 7

8. That improvement in methods of mak ing shoes which consists in conforming the heel portion ofthe shoe upper including a heel stiflenerrto the shape of .a heel form other than the last upon which the shoe is to be made and turning a heel seat flange inwardly over the heel form, and connecting opposite portions of the heel seat flange at the forward ends of the heel stifiener by a flexible connecting strip of a lengthto hold the heel portion of the upper from spreading, removing the upper from the heel form and subsequently assembling the upper on the last.

paring a shoe upper shoe before applying the upper upon which the shoe is to beconsists in molding the heel portion 0 the shoe upper including a heelstifiener by pressure to the shape of a heel form and turning a heel seat flange inwardly over the heel form providing a flexible connecting strip v portions of the heel seat flange at the forward endsof the $5 heel stifiener, and then securing the ends of said onnecting strip to the heel seat flange at the forward ends of the heel stiffener before the upper materials have been released lding pressure about the heel form. in methods of pre-' from mo 10. That improvement incorporation in a a form paring a slice upper for shoe which consists in provi havin a shape corresponding to the heel e the upper eel stiffener, conend 0 thereon of the upper to the an t a heel seatflange inwardly over the top face of the heel form, applying a connecting strip to the b0 heel form, said strip being of an inelastic connecting strip of a iength to while the about the upon w shaped condition upon which the oithe connect join opp maintain the opposite tion ofthe upper in they occupy when assembled on the last.

12. A shoe upper with its end portion conformed approximately to the shape of these parts in the finished. shoe preparatory to applying the upper to the last upon which the shoe is to he made and having the lower marginal edges of the opposite sides of its shaped portion connected connecting strip to maintain the shaped portion of the upper from spreading.

13. A shoe upper with its heel portion including a heel stiffener conformed to the shape of these parts in the finished shoe preparator ich the shoe is to be made and having the lower marginal edges of its oppositesides at the forward ends of the heel stifiener connected by an inelastic connecting strip in the conformed condition of the'upper materials to hold the heel portion of the upper from'spreading. v

14. A shoe upper with its heel portion including a heel stiffener conforme shape of these parts in the finished shoe preparatorv to applying the upper to th upon w ich the shoe is to be made and ing a tially hav- right angles to the adjacent body portion of the upper and having a flexible connecting strip extending'aeross the upper at the forward ends otthe he'el'stifiener and secured at its ends to the heel seat flange .to maintain the upper against spreading.

15. A shoe upper with eluding a heel .stiflener v conforme shape of these parts in the finished shoe preparatory to upon, which is to be made and having a heel seat flange extendingatisubstan tially right angles to the tion of the uppen) and opposite portions of the heel strip joining, seat flange at stiflener. v v- 16. A shoe upperwith its heel portion including a heel stifiener conforme shape of these parts in paratory to applying shoe is to bemade and havan mturned heel seat flange and-having osite portions of the heel seat at the forward en 7 secured at its ends to said inturned flange In testimony name tothis specification.

*r'rnms Bacon.

its heel portion ind to the 100 app ymg the upper to the lastd 105 an inelast c connecting the forward ends of the heel v p the the finished shoe prethe upper-to the last 7 =11 strip ota length to;

flange of the heeltstifiener and heel seat whereof I have signed my sides of the end porthe relative positions by an inelastic d to thee last heel seat flange 'extendingat substan- 

